Climbing Aconcagua - Base Camp to Camp 3: Part 3

Camp 2 Before the Storm

Guide Allie at Camp 1

Group Members with Aconcagua

by Rick Hoffman

On day 5, climbing started in earnest. Mules were unable to accompany us father up the mountain, and we really no porter support like we had on Kilimanjaro. On Kili we were assigned seven porters for two climbers. On Aconcagua we had one porter for all seven climbers. Guess who would be carrying the loads? We also were required to don our plastic boots and switch from day packs to large packs. In this fashion we could carry our heavy parkas and loads to Camp 1, but also have protection in case we had to bivouac on the mountain without shelter. We would don our parkas, put our feet in the pack, and hunker down for the night.

We set off for Camp 1 with packs weighing thirty-five to forty pounds. The plan was to carry food, ropes, fuel, crampons, tents, and other gear to Camp 1 at 16,200 feet where we would eat lunch and stash the gear. The following day we would carry another load and move to Camp 1. Our first obstacles were the many fields of penatentes. They loomed above base camp looking surreal as we moved toward these fields of snow spikes. They were slick and steep, but we managed to get through them with just our poles. As we started up, Allie coached us on the mountaineering technique called “rest step.” This energy saving technique involved taking a step, locking the back leg to allow the skeleton rather than muscles to take the weight and pausing perhaps half a second. This technique is very effective, and I use it often near the summits of Colorado 14ers. Slow and steady is the name of the game. The turtle is the best high altitude mountaineer.

Everything was going fine until Mark, a few paces behind me, said, “Dad, I don’t feel too good.” As I turned he covered his mouth and threw up, covering himself in slime. This was not good. We made our best attempt to clean him up and pondered what happened. It was clear to me it was not altitude sickness. Obviously he had gotten a bug from the water or food. After this Martin asked if he wanted to return to base camp. He said no since he had to carry his load. Despite being very sick he carried the gear to 16,200. He did not eat much and collapsed sick in the tent when we returned to camp. I was quite worried, since we had to carry another load the next day and camp at the higher altitude.

During dinner we were surprised to hear John was giving up. He announced he had arranged for a mule ride back to the trailhead. We encouraged him to stay, but he felt he could not keep up and was leaving. He seemed to be a guy who was not content to be following the leader or pushing himself. More casualties of the high altitude would follow.

On day 6 we moved to Camp 1. It was a desolate place with no vegetation, high wind and a toilet area that would make anyone sick. Mark had recovered now and was climbing strongly. The next day we would make a load carry to 17,600. During the night at 16,200, it was my turn to be sick. I woke to a rumbling stomach and exited the tent. I stumbled over crossed guy lines of numerous tents, hoping not to throw up on a fellow climber’s tent. I reached the toilet area, a flat spot behind a rock and had it coming out of both ends. Whatever Mark had, I had in spades. I returned to the tent weak and exhausted. Dawn came too soon, and I was still sick. Julia was also sick, most likely from the altitude and could not get out of her tent. Two high altitude porters carried her back to base camp. She was our second casualty and would spend her trip at the 14,000 foot base camp until we returned.

I was determined to complete the load carry to Camp 2 at 17,600 and not let the team down despite being very weak and still sick. At about 17,200 Nancy was not feeling well, so it was decided she and I would descend to Camp 1. Mark, Martin and Allie split our loads and finished the trip to 17,600. When I got back to the tent I tried to hydrate but could eat very little. I knew if I was not able to move to 17,600 the next day, I would share Julia’s fate and return to base camp. Fortunately the bug was short lived, and I felt OK after a night’s rest.

On day 8 we started up to camp at 17,600. Moving slowly and using the rest step were critical as the air became thinner and thinner. We started to make camp at 17,600, and it became obvious a storm was coming. The blue sky was quickly clouding up, and Mark was getting intense with me to gather rocks to secure the tent. This was the first time I was huffing and puffing and had to lie down and rest to catch my breath. I rested for a very short time then we finished the task just in time to be engulfed in a strong blizzard. We put on our expedition parkas and hunkered down in our sleeping bags trying to stay warm. We would sleep in our parkas and clothes the rest of the trip trying to stay warm as the temperature dropped, and we got weaker due to the thin air and loss of appetite.

We tried to seal the tent as best we could but the blizzard conditions allowed snow to slowly sift inside the tent; all of our gear in the outer vestibule was buried in snow. Martin delivered tea in a thermos and dinner came from the guides. After being sick the night before and unable to eat, a hot meal was very welcome We stocked up on food from our snack pack, knowing we had to consume as many calories for the days to come. Some say you can burn 8000 calories a day at this altitude and rate of exertion. Obviously we were falling way short on calorie intake and were losing weight and strength. It was cold that night and the wind was fierce. We propped ourselves against the tent walls to keep the tent from collapsing. It was a long night with not much sleep. Tomorrow we would move to Camp 3 at 19,300 feet, roughly the altitude of the Kilimanjaro summit.

The weather improved in the morning, and we were able to climb with lighter clothing. After the beating the night before we understood the importance of having our heavy parkas with us and the ability to bivouac with our legs in our packs. The climb to 19,300 went well and we arrived at Camp 3 before dark. It was starting to snow and it was important to get the tent set up. Frank appeared to be dazed a bit, and Laura was weak from not being able to keep much down since 16,200 feet. She maintained a strong attitude but the lack of food and altitude was taking a toll. Her dream of climbing an 8000 meter peak in the coming months was fading fast, since she was struggling at 5900 meters.

Mark and I quickly pitched our tent as the storm struck camp. When finished, we secured our tent and left to check on the other climbers. Frank had not moved from the spot where he was standing a half hour before, and it was clear he was not going to be able to make camp without help. The storm was intensifying, so we grabbed his tent and started gathering the requisite one hundred rocks. Soon the tent was pitched, and we made sure he was in his sleeping bag. As usual a good shot of hot tea, sugar, and a solid meal improved his condition. About this time Nancy advised the group she was content to have made it to 19,000 feet but would not try for the summit. Now the expedition was down to four climbers.

Allie and Martin quickly served up a great meal of beef, veggies and couscous. For some reason the couscous did not work for me, and to this day I cannot stomach that stuff. We hunkered down in our parkas and bags for a night’s sleep, anticipating a 4 AM wake up for the summit attempt in the morning.